Fresh From the HORNO, Chef David Sellers Heats Up Santa Fe Dining

Santa Fe’s most anticipated summer restaurant opening is undoubtedly Horno from Chef / Owner David Sellers. His last gig was as the head of the Street Food Institute in Albuquerque, an interesting organization that helps launch careers and second chapters in people’s lives. Now, the City Different awaits the next chapter in his…

SIDENOTE: If you, dear reader, are a devotee of the annual Taco Wars event, you may remember that, under that banner, Chef Sellers won the “Top Taco” title in 2019. This year, instead of one large event, The Liquid Muse Events presents a series of Taco Wars Takeovers and the first is on June 12 for a sneak peek at Horno. Get info / tix by subscribing to The Liquid Museletter.

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Chef Sellers outside Horno, on Marcy Street, in downtown Santa Fe

Originally from the North East, Chef Sellers moved to Santa Fe in 1996 but he began professional cooking in college, at an organic bakery, back in 1990. While living in San Francisco, he worked with a Vietnamese chef who also was a Sous Chef at Stars restaurant under Jeremiah Tower. Inspired by this mentor, Sellers further explored the philosophies of both Towers and Alice Waters of Chez Panisse, adopting their devotion to fresh ingredients. While in California, he also learned the art of fresh pasta, incorporating eye-popping produce with the bold flavors of Italian cuisine. His long career has included winning competitions and hosting incredible wine dinners. And, before now, his most memorable moment was opening his first restaurant, Amavi.

“I walked out into the dining room towards the end of our first busy night. [It] was completely full and the energy of all the guests having a great time, laughing, loving the food and the wine, the room had a loud, boisterous and the most loving feeling. I will never forget that moment, it makes me strive for perfection, and makes my heart so full.”

This year’s shift back to Santa Fe is the culmination of his diverse experience. As he puts it, “I needed to work for myself again, to create a restaurant that takes care of my family. That’s not a job, it’s something you live. Taking this step has been both terrifying and invigorating.” And, a passion for food and the restaurant business are only two facets of being a truly great restaurateur. Making people happy is a big part of that recipe. As we impatiently wait for Horno’s doors to open in June, Sellers has shared that the concept will be global cuisine in street food form with affordable prices and local-friendly. Sellers tells us what we can expect:

“I love to cook Southeast Asian, Mexican, South American and more! All of these cuisines will be making appearances on the Horno menu…I source the best products I can get and put them together [to] create a memory of something in a way you haven’t had before, to try to get the guest to feel like that is the best they have ever had… Horno will be to deliver an incredible culinary experience with both the food and the service.”

When not working, Chef Sellers enjoys testing new dishes at home and values time cooking with his son, Mateo. “I feel like with the virus, all the culinary people of Santa Fe had a chance to step back, to not work so hard, to enjoy their families, to cook at home. For me it reinvigorated parts of my thirst for trying new things, for exploring food, and I think it has had the same effect on many in Santa Fe. Now with things opening back up I see a new creativity in my friends’ restaurants. I feel like everybody as a collective is on their A game to breathe the life back into Santa Fe as a culinary destination. I am so happy to be part of that again!”

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“2020 strongly reminded us of the importance of human connection. When we were closed, we missed our friends; both our guests and all the people we work with every day. The restaurants bring people together and it is something we love most about being in this business.”

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Paloma Soars as Santa Fe Restaurants Reopen!

I still tend to think of Paloma as “that adorable new place on Guadalupe” but, can you believe that it is celebrating its FOURTH anniversary, this summer? Walking in feels like “authentic Oaxaca meets hipster Brooklyn” to me because, well, the place has style while not feeling over-done. The food is vibrantly flavorful. And, it is one of the places I opt for a cocktail (versus wine or beer) to kick off a meal. And, from my discerning point of view, I mean that as a compliment to their liquid offerings.

The dynamic duo behind Paloma is equal parts charm and talent from both owners Marja Martin and Chef Nathan Mayes. Marja has been a staple in the Santa Fe restaurant scene as she was involved with several top restaurants in town before launching her own spot. And, Chef Nathan lived in Santa Fe off-and-on since he was a teenager, finally making the move in 2014.

He describes Paloma’s cuisine as casual and Mexican-inspired, featuring traditional flavors and local, seasonal ingredients. Two of my favorite menu items are the crispy sea bass tacos and cauliflower tacos. From the bar, I always enjoy the Oaxacan Negroni (Vida Mezcal, Vermut Rojo, Campari) and La Rosa (Codigo Rosa, Rhubarb, Sparkling Rosado). Paloma also boasts a robust mezcal list for purists which is usually what I switch to sip with my food, after a cocktail. (Be sure to check out their mezcal flights!)

Chef Nathan started his culinary journey working at his father’s restaurant in Austin and found his passion at an early age. “I’ve always enjoyed creating and eating,” he explains. “I’m inspired by many aspects of professional cooking, including sourcing and growing produce, the teamwork involved in running a kitchen, and the craft of cooking itself.”

Of course, during 2020, when running a kitchen was no longer a viable option, Paloma found a temporary alternative business model by offering set-menu, family-style meals to go. And, I was really impressed with what they could pull off. I had the sumptuous black bean soup, chicken asada and one of the tastiest flans I’ve ever tried! But, despite their success, Chef Nathan felt a personal blow.

“The anxiety of the pandemic was increased by the anxiety of losing all I had worked for in the last 5 years. The feeling of insignificance was something I personally struggled with. My friends and family kept me sane and grounded. Although we had success in takeout, it wasn’t the same as having guests gather and dine.”

As it becomes safer to gather, all of us who LOVE working in hospitality will be able to live fully, again. And, personally, I think our scene will be more vibrant than ever. We have new to-go and delivery services that will continue, and we have new dine-in places opening their doors all around town. Chef Nathan agrees:

“The Santa Fe culinary scene is always evolving, it’s such an eclectic mix of restaurants. It’s a unique town with so many different styles of dining and diner. The farm-to-table trend is continuing to grow here, it’s the one I’m most excited about. In my opinion, that’s what is really going to drive the evolution of high desert cuisine, what we have to cook with. I’m thankful for being able to partner with so many local farmers, they’re the ones who let us create food with identity and roots. (No pun intended.) I’m just thankful for the support of the local community through the past year and am very excited to welcome people back safely to Paloma!”

I cannot wait to belly up to the bar again, at all my favorite local spots, including this one. If you happen to be nearby, reach over… let’s clink glasses!

Follow Chef Nathan Mayes on Istagram at: @meatcook and Paloma at @palomarestaurant

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Joseph’s Culinary Pub: Riffing On Excellence

Watching them over the years, I see a mad genius in Joe’s creative cooking and the yin to his yang is Starr’s level-headed approach to business and marketing. When I asked them each to describe the cuisine at Joseph’s, Chef Wrede simply calls it “Joe food” whereas Starr waxes poetic, “It’s like jazz... sometimes you read a dish and it seems like a lot of noise. But you take a bite and it’s a beautiful song.”

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