I still tend to think of Paloma as “that adorable new place on Guadalupe” but, can you believe that it is celebrating its FOURTH anniversary, this summer? Walking in feels like “authentic Oaxaca meets hipster Brooklyn” to me because, well, the place has style while not feeling over-done. The food is vibrantly flavorful. And, it is one of the places I opt for a cocktail (versus wine or beer) to kick off a meal. And, from my discerning point of view, I mean that as a compliment to their liquid offerings.
The dynamic duo behind Paloma is equal parts charm and talent from both owners Marja Martin and Chef Nathan Mayes. Marja has been a staple in the Santa Fe restaurant scene as she was involved with several top restaurants in town before launching her own spot. And, Chef Nathan lived in Santa Fe off-and-on since he was a teenager, finally making the move in 2014.
He describes Paloma’s cuisine as casual and Mexican-inspired, featuring traditional flavors and local, seasonal ingredients. Two of my favorite menu items are the crispy sea bass tacos and cauliflower tacos. From the bar, I always enjoy the Oaxacan Negroni (Vida Mezcal, Vermut Rojo, Campari) and La Rosa (Codigo Rosa, Rhubarb, Sparkling Rosado). Paloma also boasts a robust mezcal list for purists which is usually what I switch to sip with my food, after a cocktail. (Be sure to check out their mezcal flights!)
Chef Nathan started his culinary journey working at his father’s restaurant in Austin and found his passion at an early age. “I’ve always enjoyed creating and eating,” he explains. “I’m inspired by many aspects of professional cooking, including sourcing and growing produce, the teamwork involved in running a kitchen, and the craft of cooking itself.”
Of course, during 2020, when running a kitchen was no longer a viable option, Paloma found a temporary alternative business model by offering set-menu, family-style meals to go. And, I was really impressed with what they could pull off. I had the sumptuous black bean soup, chicken asada and one of the tastiest flans I’ve ever tried! But, despite their success, Chef Nathan felt a personal blow.
“The anxiety of the pandemic was increased by the anxiety of losing all I had worked for in the last 5 years. The feeling of insignificance was something I personally struggled with. My friends and family kept me sane and grounded. Although we had success in takeout, it wasn’t the same as having guests gather and dine.”
As it becomes safer to gather, all of us who LOVE working in hospitality will be able to live fully, again. And, personally, I think our scene will be more vibrant than ever. We have new to-go and delivery services that will continue, and we have new dine-in places opening their doors all around town. Chef Nathan agrees:
“The Santa Fe culinary scene is always evolving, it’s such an eclectic mix of restaurants. It’s a unique town with so many different styles of dining and diner. The farm-to-table trend is continuing to grow here, it’s the one I’m most excited about. In my opinion, that’s what is really going to drive the evolution of high desert cuisine, what we have to cook with. I’m thankful for being able to partner with so many local farmers, they’re the ones who let us create food with identity and roots. (No pun intended.) I’m just thankful for the support of the local community through the past year and am very excited to welcome people back safely to Paloma!”
I cannot wait to belly up to the bar again, at all my favorite local spots, including this one. If you happen to be nearby, reach over… let’s clink glasses!
Follow Chef Nathan Mayes on Istagram at: @meatcook and Paloma at @palomarestaurant
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