One of the things I love the most about Joseph’s Culinary Pub is the people behind it. Yes, the restaurant is charming and homey, the wine list is exceptional, and the food is roll-your-eyes-back-in-your-head delicious but - to me - none of that would matter if it weren’t the constant care and creativity from Chef/Owner Joseph Wrede and General Manager/Beverage Director Starr Bowers.
Watching them over the years, I see a mad genius in Joe’s creative cooking and the yin to his yang is Starr’s level-headed approach to business and marketing. When I asked them each to describe the cuisine at Joseph’s, Chef Wrede simply calls it “Joe food” whereas Starr waxes poetic, “It’s like jazz... sometimes you read a dish and it seems like a lot of noise. But you take a bite and it’s a beautiful song.”
And, they are both right! While Starr goes on to explain the menu as “global with an emphasis on New Mexico,” I would note the very popular lamb burger, steak au poivre and duck confit highlight traditional bistro fare with as much locally sourced meat as possible. And, there are also unique offerings such as rabbit lasagna, chicken liver mousse (which I personally love) and smoked trout salad. For dessert, I’m partial to the butterscotch pudding with caramel sauce & sea salt. Super YUM!
Joe has been a chef for over 25 years, and his journey has taken him to Phoenix, Cincinnati, Buffalo, Denver, Taos and, finally, Santa Fe. He says that culture drew him to the culinary arts and, as a creative brain would, he describes innovation as “mindset.” Being named “Best New Chef” in 2000 in Food & Wine was a pivotal moment in his career and helped him find intention moving forward. Since opening Joseph’s Culinary Pub in 2013, he has received many accolades including a feature on Guy Fieri’s TV show “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.” (personal aside: While Joseph’s is a cut above any of those “D” words, it was great exposure for our local culinary scene!)
Moving from in-person dining to take out during the pandemic was a challenge for everyone in our culinary community. Starr jumped into action by researching best practices trying to adapt as pandemic restrictions are enacted, then retracted, then change again, explaining:
“I went from a job I knew like the back of my hand to the complete unknown. Acute anxiety? YES. But, so far, we’ve done it.”
Originally from Pittsburgh, Starr Bowers started her career as a Host at Ruth’s Chris Steak House. In 1995, her father brought the family to Santa Fe when he opened The Bull Ring as the General Manager. There, Starr honed her skills doing every front-of-house position before relocating to Portland, Maine, in 2000, where she became the Dining Room Manager at Fore Street Restaurant where Chef/Owner Sam Hayward was named James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef – Northeast” and her evolution began:
“That’s where I really learned about Farm-to-Table dining and wines of the world…After moving back to Santa Fe, I saw that our food scene was finally evolving from menus that never changed and New World wine lists to something much more and I was excited! I wanted in! I realized that my father had given me this amazing foundation in business… He was so, so good at [restaurant management] and he taught me more than I really understood until later on in my career.”
She describes innovation as staying true to the food, explaining, “Things don’t have to be on fire to be innovative. Bigger isn’t always better.” While Chef Joe applies word association to navigating the pandemic: “Closure, strategy, patience, hope, fear, insecurity - the usual suspects.”
A love of community is what keeps us all moving forward. In spite of so much (too much?) of our economy focused on seasonal tourism, locals keep restaurants and bars afloat throughout the year. Starr agrees, “I think we’re getting out of our own way and catering to our locals which we should…Our neighbors deserve our full attention.” Nonetheless, with summer around the corner, visitors’ vacation dollars are well spent seeking the Santa Fe experience, which includes our wonderful restaurants. As Joe puts it, “Santa Fe will always be a very romantic place in darkness and in light.”
I think that Starr’s approach to hospitality sums the goals of true professionals, and the kind of dining experience guests can expect when they visit Joseph’s Culinary Pub:
“I want to give every part of the restaurant the best that I can. Kindness to my coworkers, strong work ethic to my boss (until I’m my own), amazing product to our guests, business and partnership to our local farmers and ranchers, and a fun unique experience...People trust us for a wonderful meal in a beautiful setting…That’s what I want to provide. Dining out is a privilege and I want to earn that from our guests… Now I just try to remind myself that the day I think I know it all, I have to quit. There is always more to learn and more mistakes to make. That’s how we grow.”
This is one of my favorite spots in town so as soon as it’s safe for us to do so, I look forward to many more great meals amongst friends at Joseph’s. In the meantime, order your take-out meal Thursday-Saturday from 5-8pm, Sunday 5-7 pm. Phones open at 12 pm for pre-orders.
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