The first things you see as you drive away from Francisco Gabrielli’s International airport in Mendoza are the vines on their lot. If you didn’t know you were in wine country when you landed, it becomes crystal clear once you exit the airport and kick-start your vine inspired adventure.
Mendoza, the capital city of Mendoza Province, and the fourth largest metropolis in Argentina, is less than two hours by plane from Buenos Aires. This thriving metropolis with an approximate population of 1 million is a European inspired city and a busy stopover for outdoor activists en route to Aconcagua, the highest mountain the Western Hemisphere. Aconcagua plays hosts to international travelers who fly in from every corner of the globe in search of world-class biking, hiking, rafting, horseback riding and skiing.
For others traveling the global road in search of the great grapes of the world, Mendoza is simply a can’t miss on the list. The Napa of South America, the fifth largest wine region in the world, is producing two thirds of Argentina’s wines. There are other grand regions in Argentina, from San Juan and La Rioja and Patagonia to several other smaller regions. Mendoza's, however, is the mightiest with vineyard acreage greater than New Zealand and Australia combined.
The widely planted Malbec grape originates in France, yet Argentina's variety is very different from its French relatives. Their sultry super star has already made its mark in the world with its rich color, deep fruit flavors and a smooth finish. Other reds in the region include Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo originating in Spain’s Rioja region and Italian varieties.
Equally distinctive in the Mendoza portfolio is Torrontes, the only grape wholly indigenous to Argentina. This seductive wine is unlike any other white. It causes a sensorial surprise, with its Muscat-y fragrance, aromatic and floral with hints of peach and citrus, yet spicy on the palate. It is a unique, medium bodied white that can stand up well to the Argentinean smoked meats.
Argentina kicked in to the grape game in the 16th century. The Spanish, Italian and French have all played a hand in influencing their local viticulture. Once quantity driven, the now 1,000 wineries in today’s Argentina are largely focused on quality, producing world class wines. Their wine tourism is as impressive as the wines themselves, with top-notch accommodations, a thriving culinary culture and a natural backdrop and aesthetic that is truly breathtaking. Two of the region’s star wineries well worth a visit:
Zuccardi
Argentina's family-run wineries often have 4th and 5th generation winemakers at the helm, such as Zuccardi Winery which dates back to the mid 19th century. Today winemaker and patriarch Jose Zuccardi and his ex-wife amicably run the winery with their two sons and daughter actively involved, one of which found his passion at their olive oil presses, where he oversees all aspects of their family run artisan olive oils.
Take in the vines via balloon, bike or classic car or be a part of the process by picking or pruning (depending upon the season), and you'll be wildly rewarded with a chilled Rose Brut and passed tapas of beef and succulent cheese & onion empanadas. Once seated in the winery's warm and rustic restaurant, their traditional Argentinean asada of Argentinean beef, sausage, chicken and pork is well worth the wait and perfectly paired by with Zuccardi Q 2005 Tempranillo. Their Port Malamado, a late harvest 2005 Malbec and mandarin mousse is a seamless finish.
Salentein Winery
Salentein set in The Uco Valley is the highest of the four within regions within Mendoza. It is dramatically staged at the foot of the Andes Mountains lying at 800 to 1400m above sea level. The Dutch owned winery is an architectural and artistic accomplishment as it is also home to Killka, an on site art gallery for prestigious Mendoza and Argentinean artists and a restaurant under the same name, a showcase for their greatest work of art, their Premium Malbec with its stone fruits, plum tobacco and long finish.
Once you photograph, figuratively or literally their breathtaking views slip in for a tour of the evocative gallery and their stunning winery. Indulge in a tasting of the expansive portfolio of their premium Chardonnays, Pinot Noir and Malbecs in their tasting room.
An Argentinean lunch at Killka is a must. The highly spirited restaurant with large family style tables is an intoxicating place with their floor to ceiling windows creating a perfect backdrop, a portrait of the vines painted in to the base of The Andes. Lunch was a sinful mix of Cheese Provoleta, Argentinean lamb and the best Dulce de Leche of my life. It was truly decadent, the perfect ending to this window of bliss.
When in Mendoza…
Stay – The Sheraton Mendoza Hotel and Casino is city centric and walking distance to all of the shops and top restaurants. Their luxe accommodations include a pool, spa and gym, perfect for working off your local sins. It’s home to one of the few five star restaurants in town with the best views of the city from the rooftop restaurant. www.argentina.travel & http://bit.ly/yRL37
Play – For all things fun and festive in Argentina and Mendoza go to www.argentinatravel.com. For info on LAN Airlines and flights to Argentina, go to www.lan.com
Wine – The Winery store in Mendoza, the former home of the Mayor of Mendoza and adjacent to El 23 Gran Bar is perhaps the chicest wine shop on the planet. If Anna Wintour was a wino, this is where she would shop.
Dine – By the vines, Almacen del Sur’s (www.almacendelsur.com) gourmet delicatessen and restaurant is pitch perfect for the foodie who likes a few flights with their local culinary lesson. Trapiche was their wine of choice. Three is a charm as we had the Trapiche Chardonnay, Fond de Cave Sauvignon Blanc and their late harvest Malbec. PS, Almacen has an extensive line of jams, jellies and dips to take with.
In city center, award-winning chef Pablo Ranea’s Azafran restaurant beckons to another time with his kitchen antiquities. Ranea’s food and hospitality are simply sublime and the sommeliers Yanquen 2007 Rica Malen, 2007 Trumpeteer Torrontes, 2005 CV Catena Malbec and the Stradivarius de Bianchi 2003 desert wine were simply some of the best wines of the week. www.be.com.ar
Argentina’s Southern style hospitality makes any enophile feel right at home.
*Photo Credit: Karen Loftus