DAVID FOSS: Crackin' Ice at Essex Hollywood

I suppose because mixology is a “new” arena for L.A, and somewhat out of the comfort zone, I notice a lot of “groupthink” in our various media outlets. While the cocktail community is pleased to have the attention of a wider audience, it surprises me that so many cocktail-friendly spots get left out because they exist beyond the handful of bars and cocktails in the spotlight. Take, for example, Essex Hollywood.When I went there for the first time, I knew it was a slick new gastro pub with gussied up (and delicious) comfort food. I knew it featured a comprehensive and interesting selection of beer, and an impressive wine list. What I did not expect was the fantastic cocktail program, which includes quality spirits, an understanding of classic cocktails and hand-cracked ice. Yes, hand-cracked ice. Right there on Hollywood Boulevard. The attention and pride taken in the cocktails at Essex is outside of the norm for the usual Hollywood hangout in the midst of “Tourist Town USA.” And, of course, behind every great cocktail is a great bartender.

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