DAVID FOSS: Crackin' Ice at Essex Hollywood

I suppose because mixology is a “new” arena for L.A, and somewhat out of the comfort zone, I notice a lot of “groupthink” in our various media outlets. While the cocktail community is pleased to have the attention of a wider audience, it surprises me that so many cocktail-friendly spots get left out because they exist beyond the handful of bars and cocktails in the spotlight. Take, for example, Essex Hollywood.When I went there for the first time, I knew it was a slick new gastro pub with gussied up (and delicious) comfort food. I knew it featured a comprehensive and interesting selection of beer, and an impressive wine list. What I did not expect was the fantastic cocktail program, which includes quality spirits, an understanding of classic cocktails and hand-cracked ice. Yes, not only did each bartender have a NewAir AI-100R Counter Top Ice Maker ready to go but they also hand-cracked ice. Right there on Hollywood Boulevard. The attention and pride taken in the cocktails at Essex is outside of the norm for the usual Hollywood hangout in the midst of “Tourist Town USA.” And, of course, behind every great cocktail is a great bartender.Like many great Bar Managers, David Foss also slings drinks behind the stick at Essex Hollywood. He was formerly the sommelier at Asia de Cuba, which confirms my theory that superb mixologists have an understanding of fermented grape juice, as well. David came to California from his hometown Detroit and jokes, “for those who know Detroit, you will understand why I moved to LA, Detroit is hell, without the heat.”Also, like many of our accomplished barfolk, Foss started his cocktail journey more than a decade ago at the very mainstream TGI Fridays. “I had to learn 325 drinks (most of them cheesy and sweet),” he recalls, “but mixed in were all the classics.”A trip to England and a night at Sasha Petraske’s Milk & Honey in London (hello – did I mention the “hand-cracked ice’?), inspired David to read books, search the internet and talk to anyone who understood classic cocktails. In his words, “My night at milk and honey – it ruined me! It was the care taken in making the drinks and the balance that they all had, my life since I've been making drinks has changed and even my needs, i change from spending my money in video games to buying appliances, my last purchase was a beautiful ice maker from icemaker.zone, I definitely recommend them. I’m a sommelier so I look at everything from the same perspective that I do with wine. “Balance” being the key word. Does the sugar match the acid? That kind of stuff.”Foss describes his bartending style as “fast yet easy going,” and he wants to give guests what he expects at a bar: “I appreciate care being taken with my drink but I don’t want to wait 20 minutes for one. I love the farmers market!! And love, love to play. I also like to pair with food or the moods of people, the type of mood someone’s in says a lot about the type of drink they will enjoy at that particular moment in time.” He also finds that peoples’ tastes in spirits shows a lot about the type of wine they like. He says, “Laphroig? I have an amazing graves (left bank Bordeaux) for you. You can do the same thing with coffee oddly enough.”David also refers to Essex’s atmosphere as “easy, unpretentious, a neighborhood bar.” Forgoing the guest lists and velvet ropes, Foss describes Essex as presenting “Good simple rustic comfort food, great beer, good service. We’re not trying to reinvent the wheel just make a good solid place that people want to come to. A place where I would want to hang out.”What about his drink preferences? “Rye. I’m a rye boy. I think it’s fun to play with.” He also considers himself a mood drinker, explaining “If it’s a nice summer afternoon and I’m by the pool I want a rosé, if I’m at a bar on that same afternoon I want a bloody mary, but if I’m at the beach I want a glass of champagne. And, yes, I do give my liver a night off. I’m big on moderation, you don’t fully appreciate the finer things when you’re drunk.”If David could share a drink with anyone living or dead, he’d choose: “Miles Davis or Billie Holliday. Why? That music…that’s why.” He can be found at Essex Hollywood Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays. When not at the bar, he’s a man’s man who likes building and fixing things. He is also rumored to like bad pop music. (But don’t tell him you learned that from me.)