It started as a debate as to whether or not to incorporate Foie Gras into the menu at El Bizcocho, the fine dining restaurant at San Diego’s picturesque urban-escape Rancho Bernardo Inn Golf Resort & Spa . Not only did that discussion end with a resounding “no” against serving overstuffed goose livers but the conversation swung in the opposite direction, resulting in a 7-course vegan dinner.
Now, don’t get the wrong idea. El Bizcocho’s Executive Chef Judd Canepari - who is of Italian origin to boot - does not consider himself a “vegan chef” but he was up for what he calls the “ultimate challenge”… and by all accounts, he passed with flying colors. “I could eat vegan every day if he’d prepare the food!” was a common declaration at our table.
As if this adventure wasn’t already enticing enough, each course was paired with selections from Temecula’s biodynamic Leonesse Winery. Local olive oil was used in the seasonal dishes, and Chef Leah Di Bernardo from Delyte’s Catering Co. and President Temecula Valley Slow Food chapter, also provided insights into healthier cooking. “The food we eat affects how we think, feel and treat others,” she says, “so eat good, clean food.” Di Bernardo also contributed a dish of her own for Course 4, as you’ll see in the menu below:
Course 1: Amuse of Barely Cooked San Marzano Tomato Soup. Chef Canepari wanted to keep as much natural flavor as possible so he heated the tomatoes quickly to 150 degrees, and then immediately left them to cool. They he pureed them with pickled cucumber, chive oil and black truffles, which lent a creamy texture to the soup.
Pairing: Leonesse Cellars 2008 Roussanne, a crisp white with acid enough to stand up to tomatoes.
Course 2: This fanciful trompe l’oeil came out looking like 2 pieces ahi sushi on the plate. Amid puzzled looks (all animal products are forbidden in vegan cuisine), Chef Canepali explained that the Ahi Melon Sashimi ‘s “tuna” was actually pressed watermelon atop sushi rice, with a dab of wasabi, alongside a tempura shiso leaf. (This would also be perfect for pregnant women avoiding raw fish!)
Pairing: Leonesse Cellars 2008 Muscat Canelli, this was a bit sweet for my taste so early in the meal, but would have been delightful if this were a stand-alone pairing for a summer brunch, perhaps.
Course 3: Instead of using chickpeas, Chef Canepali used soybeans for the Edamame Hummus draped over a cube of Agedashi tofu sitting in a broth of chili brewed soy sauce, and a garnish of teriyaki glazed Maitake mushroom.
Pairing: Leonesse Cellars 2008 Melange de Blanc (Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne) This crisp white with peach, honeysuckle played nicely off the uber-umami of this dish.
Course 4: The Braised Local Artichoke sat upon a bed of black & red quinoa drizzled with tomato coulis. This was Chef Leah Di Bernardo’s contribution to this dinner, and she informed us that artichokes are the #1 produce in California.
Pairing: Leonesse Cellars 2007 Melange de Reves (Syrah, Cinsaut, Mourvedre and Granache). Did you know that Temecula has almost the same climate as the Rhone Valley? Hence, those grapes make many appearances in Southern California’s wine country.
Course 5: The Spring Pea Farro Porridge with black truffle, globe carrot, baked tofu and pea tendrils, sat upon the most decadent bed of farro, it was hard to believe there was no butter in it. Chef Canepali told us the “farro is the reason the Romans conquered the world” because the soldiers would take their native wheat berry with them as they travelled, and therefore didn’t starve.
Pairing: Leonesse Cellars 2006 Syrah, which received 90 points in the big wine magazines’ evaluations. Another fun fact, NBA star Michael Jordan enjoyed tasting this small production wine so much that he ordered 6 cases of the ’04, thereby making it difficult to find in stores.
Course 6: “Gardein” Chicken Breast with puy lentils, chick pea & vegetable curry, fried squash blossom. Interestingly, this course seemed superfluous. By the time we got to this course, I was already convinced that a delectable, gourmet meal could be meatless – I didn’t even need a meat substitute! (Although, I was glad to discover it so I can buy it at home…)
Pairing: Leonesse Cellars 2008 Viognier. I’m a big fan of viognier but admit that it did strike me as odd to go back to a white wine as the previous 2 courses were served with red.
Course 7: Tofu Cheesecake on a bed of liquid nitrogen berry risotto, maple sugar and dark chocolate consommé. Chef Canepali, flexed his molecular gastronomy muscles with this dish by using liquid nitrogen to create small “rice” from berry puree. He also shared his adventures trying to recreate a non-cheese cheesecake. When tofu cream cheese proved to be a flop in his recipe, he eventually found that using rice and seaweed gelatin working as binding agents with the soy milk and tofu. He also added a bit of malic acid to add the “tang” of a traditional cheesecake.
Pairing: Leonesse Cellars 2005 Cinsaut. This port wine packs a punch with its 20% alcohol content. It is absolutely delightful and one that I will buy to keep on hand to offer my guests after an evening meal.
The next Food with Roots Vegan Dinner at El Bizcocho will be in July. Sign up for announcement on their website to get the info. You will be amazed at how decadent a totally non-animal product meal can be. I can firmly declare that I am now a believer!