America’s mixology renaissance first hit the East Coast in the late 90s, hopped to the West Coast within the decade, and has since trickled throughout the country. Spirited studies are not dissimilar to chefs studying classic recipes, history of food, and cooking techniques. Aromatics are of utmost importance to cooks and cocktailians because we “taste” first through our noses. Therefore, bitters - only used in drops and dashes - are a big part of the evolution of modern cocktails.Bitters are concentrated tinctures of macerated bark, herbs and botanicals, originally used for medicinal purposes, mostly gastrointestinal, by early apothecaries. The mixture’s base is high-proof alcohol (around 45% ABV) but only a few drops or dashes bitters are required making their alcoholic content insignificant, while their smell and flavor remain integral. These bitter tonics were often mixed with sugar and water to make them more palatable, and sometimes a bit of booze, which led to the first “cocktail.”Many are surprised to learn that “cocktail” is not a catchall term for alcoholic beverages, but rather a classification of mixed drink comprised of only spirit, bitters, sugar and water. The quintessential cocktail is the Old Fashioned, created in the early 1800’s, made of exactly – and only – those ingredients. (The watery mess known as the “Muddled Old Fashioned” with orange, cherries, and god-knows-what came a century later, primarily to mask rough, homemade rot-gut during Prohibition.)Bitters are used in food and nonalcoholic beverages, but most commonly in cocktails. One of my early teachers, renowned expert Robert Hess (aka: DrinkBoy), explained, “bitters are to cocktails as salt is to soup” because they temper both acidity and sweetness. I have borrowed that explanation for my cocktail books, classes, and trainings because it is a great start to understanding these liquid enhancers.The recent mixology explosion has led to an enormous expansion in bitters. Fruity, savory and exotic flavors are now made in-house by bartenders and enthusiasts, as well as larger and artisanal companies. These are a few brands to try: Angostura: Initially created in 1824 by a German doctor living in Angostura, Venezuela, who brewed tropical botanicals as medicine, the company is now based in Trinidad and Tobago. The ingredients are secret but it smacks of baking spices and a little spicy, woodsy kick.Peychaud’s: Created by New Orleans apothecary, Antoine Amedie Peychaud, in the 1800s, aromas include anise, clove and nutmeg with hints of cherry and cinnamon. They are a bit sweeter than angostura and called for, specifically, in one of the earliest cocktails, the Sazerac.Fee’s Brothers: A family business since 1864, they now boast nearly 100 different products. Largely one-flavor bitters such as lemon, grapefruit, and rhubarb, they also have a Whiskey Barrel-Aged formula which complements dark spirits beautifully.Dale DeGroff’s Pimento: Crafted by “King Cocktail,” as he’s known in the industry, with input from famed absinthe distiller T. A. Breaux, this blends pimento allspice berry with clove, anise, cinnamon, fennel, herbs and botanicals. It has bitter finish so it’s a great balance in sweeter cocktails, such as tropical Tiki drinks.Regan’s Orange No. 6: Author, teacher, and mentor, Gary “Gaz” Regan began bitter-making in 1990s upon finding a vintage recipe using orange peel, cardamom, caraway, coriander and grain alcohol. He added gentian, cinchona, and quassia, and hit the jackpot on his sixth try, hence the name. Orange bitters are in many old cocktail recipes such as a vintage gin Martini.Dr. Adam Elmegirab: Based in Scotland, "the doc" makes some fascinating flavors including Dandelion & Burdock, Aphrodite, historic Boker's Bitters and a limited edition Spanish bitters.Bitter Truth: This award-winning line of bitters was launched in 2006 by a couple of German bartenders. Among their products are Celery Bitters, Creole Bitters and Jerry Thomas’ Own Decanter Bitters. (Jerry Thomas is one of the first bartenders mentioned in history.)AZ Bitters Lab: This mom-and-pop home experiments grew to fill a need for bartenders looking to punch up cocktail in the Phoenix area. Their flavors, Figgy Pudding, Mas Mole, Mi Casa and Orange Sunshine are now available well beyond the Southwest, as well as online.Bitter End: Every batch is crafted with spices, herbs, fruits, chiles, and other aromatic botanicals right here in Santa Fe. There are seven renditions, each with culinary slants: Chesapeake Bay, Curry, Jamaican Jerk, Memphis Barbeque, Mexican Mole, Moroccan, Thai. Anejo Old FashionedAlthough early Old Fashioned’s were made with rye whiskey or brandy, this Southwestern twist follows the classic model: Spirit, Bitters, Sugar, Water (ice).2 ounces anejo tequilaSeveral dashes bitters1 sugar cube or teaspoon simple syrup (sugar water)1 ice sphere or large cube Stir bitters, simple syrup and tequila. Add ice.*For extra flavor, add a few dashes of bitters to water before freezing into ice. Article first printed in Natalie's biweekly column Kiss My Glass in the Santa Fe Reporter