TLM’s “Perfect Manhattan” Columnist Tony Sachs recounts his visit to Death & Co, a trendy New York mixology bar…Death & Co., on East 6th St., is the quintessential NYC bar of the early 21st century, in that it attempts to recreate the mood – and many of the cocktails – of the saloons of the early 20th century. Even before your first sip, the pre-Volstead Act vibe is established with dim chandelier lighting, the dark wood paneling on the walls, and the gorgeous, marble-topped bar itself.But a cool looking room and a retro vibe can only take you so far. The cocktails are what matter, and Death & Co. delivers the goods and then some. The artisans behind the stick take their craft seriously, preparing each drink from scratch and occasionally going so far as to sample it to make sure it passes muster. There are some classic vintage cocktails on the ever-evolving menu, including an excellent Zombie and Jack Rose. But the lion’s share of the drink list is original creations. Favorites include the Gantt’s Tomb (Gosling’s rum, Rittenhouse rye, El Dorado 151 proof rum, Allspice Dram, and fresh pineapple, orange and lemon juice) and the Risk Pool, a twist on the Aviation featuring Old Tom gin, fresh grapefruit and lime juice, and crème de violette. Most cocktails run about $13, with a few more elaborate drinks costing a few dollars more.The food at Death & Co. is as good as the cocktails. A dozen or so small, beautifully presented items are on offer – everything from soft, warm and salty pretzel bites with whole-grain and honey mustard dipping sauces ($5) to staggeringly delicious Kobe sliders ($12). There’s no earthly reason not to have mixed drinks at Death & Co., but for those who are so inclined there’s a nice selection of wines by the glass as well, plus Scotch and other sipping spirits served solo.The only drawback of the place is the wait, which can be long if you go during prime weekend drinking hours (they don’t take reservations). It’s best to go in the early evening hours – they open at 6 PM – or on weeknights. Once you do get in, the waitstaff is friendly and attentive without being overbearing.One of these days, the cocktail craze will wane and trendhoppers will move on to other fads. But as long as there folks out there who appreciate interesting drinks made with care and expertise, using quality ingredients, Death & Co. will survive and thrive.