November is Beaujolais Nouveau month, as the famous French wine is released for consumption at midnight on the third Thursday of the month (that means November 19 this year)…which also happens to be a week before Thanksgiving. With a little marketing mojo behind it, this coincidence has led many wine retailers and experts to suggest pairing it with the Thanksgiving meal. A lot of times, that’s not a bad idea. Beaujolais Nouveau is a fresh, food-friendly wine that a lot of people enjoy year-round, so it does pair nicely with our huge yearly celebration meal. But it can also be shallow, unstable, and to use a professional term, berry-rrific.
Personally, I was ready to write off Beaujolais Nouveau. There are just so many other wines to choose from, why limit Thanksgiving to a single varietal of wine from a single region in a single country. That was, until I was invited to attend a tasting of Beaujolais a few weeks ago where I tried twenty wines from the region in order to write about them on LA.com and my own blog, Eric the Epicure.
However, none of the wines I was treated to was Nouveau, and each came from one of Beaujolais’ twelve A.O.C. appellations. Rather than the thin, acidic taste of the new wines, these A.O.C. wines took on the more complex characteristics of Pinot Noir (after all, Beaujolais neighbors the more famous Burgundy region where many of the world's most coveted Pinot Noirs are made). They were full-bodied, but with a wonderful acidity that kept them light and food-friendly, and each appellation had distinct flavors and characteristics. It was sort of like Beaujolais for the non-Beaujolais drinker. Plus, they are all available for under $30.
That got me thinking. What about keeping Beaujolais as the wine of choice for Thanksgiving, but instead of the Nouveau, drinking some of the older, more substantial offerings of the region. So below, you can find a few of my favorites from the tasting, along with suggestions of what in a typical Thanksgiving meal they might pair well with. You’ll also find information on where to buy them in California:
Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Amour, 2005
Ah, Saint-Amour, that most romantically named (and northernmost) of Beaujolais appellations. Wines from here are known for their beautiful ruby color, and red berry flavors. Joseph Drouhin, which was founded in the 19th century and is still run by the Drouhin family, is noted as one of the foremost practitioners of biodynamic viticulture in France, leading the way with environmental winemaking in a country where change is hard to achieve. That commitment has created a wine that, though still young, exhibits very pure flavors of raspberry and strawberry, as well as some more complex herbal notes like tobacco…and it will just keep getting better with age. Try it with your sweet potato dish, or perhaps a green side like broccoli soufflé or asparagus with autumn herbs. Available for $17.50 at Fine Wines International.
Daniel Bouland, Chiroubles, 2008
Wines from the Chiroubles appellation are soft and supple, but with bright red tints and floral aromas. They are typically light and easy-drinking, pairing well with mild meats and vegetable-y red sauces. This wine has all the flowery elegance of your above-average Chiroubles, but what sets it apart is its hefty dark berry and plumb flavors. It has both body and balanced acidity, making it an ideal food-friendly wine. It would go great with the turkey itself on Thanksgiving, but try it with a butternut squash or mushroom soup to get your taste buds buzzing. Available at Woodland Hills Wine Company for $17.99.
Trenel & Fils, “L’Esprit de Marius Sangouard,” Juliénas, 2007
The tiny appellation of Juliénas lies at the northern end of Beaujolais, and borders Burgundy’s famed white wine region, Mâcon. The Trenel family operates wineries in both appellations, and has been working in the wine world since 1928…so they know what they’re doing. This wine has a very vibrant red color with beautiful violet lowlights. It smells of fruits like red currant and raspberry, but also violet blossoms. It is a very lively wine in the mouth, but thanks to five months in large old barrels, it also exhibits fine tannins, ensuring that the fruit does not overwhelm the other elements. It’s a great pairing for early in the meal with cheese gougères or perhaps a light charcuterie plate. You can find this wine in Los Angeles for about $19 at the Woodland Hills Wine Company.
Dominique Piron, Domaine de Combiaty, Brouilly, 2006
Brouilly is the largest and possibly best known of the individual appellations, producing full-bodied, intense wines with flavors of plums, peaches, and rocky minerality. This one is also starting to express darker notes like black cherry and blueberry, along with soft tannins that will help it age gracefully for another five years. Still, why not drink it today with either your turkey, or a bacon-chestnut stuffing? Just a note for you history dorks: the estate at Domaine de Combiaty was designed in 1676 by Mansart and Le Notre, two of the architects of Versailles, and is one of the largest chateaux in Beaujolais. Buy the wine at The Wine Country for $16.99.
Louis-Claude Desvigne “Javernieres” Morgon, 2006
I’ll be honest: wines from Morgon are my favorite in all of Beaujolais. That’s because the decomposed rocks and crumbly schist of the region produce deeply aromatic, berry-licious wines that still hit you with wafts of smoke, pepper and licorice. They go best with game meats and strong cheeses, but with notes of mocha and cocoa, they’ll also taste good after the meal and before your coffee (you know, to fight off the tryptophan hangover). Try this one, which is starting to taste like a well-aged Pinot Noir, for $22 from Woodland Hills Wine Company.
Louis Jadot, Chateau des Jacques, Moulin-À-Vent, 2007
Though covering a mere 1,630 acres, this Cru known as the “King of Beaujolais,” Moulin-à-Vent produces Burgundy-like wines with the most aging potential in the region. Louis Jadot’s (http://www.louisjadot.com/) wine from this region has it all: bright fruity acidity, spicy afternotes, beautiful floral undertones, and well-structured tannins that keep them safe in your cellar for years. Save this wine for last, because once you taste it, you won’t want anything else. Wally’s sells this one for $24.99.
One Final Insider Tip:If you try these wines and like them—or any Beaujolais for that matter—the region has just installed a new GPS-guided wine route that is already marked on the roads and will be available for download by the end of the year. Now visiting your favorite vineyards in Beaujolais is as simple as renting a car and letting the robotic GPS lady’s voice do all the work. The 86-mile route runs through all twelve appellations and 36 villages. Choose where you want to eat, drink and sleep by downloading the Beaujolais Tourist Office's new guidebook featuring 94 wineries, as well as hotels, bistros and other points of epicurean interest.