Nothing complements the perfect bite as does the perfect sip. A successful food / drink pairing is an exemplary symbiotic relationship: without the other, the one doesn’t reach its full potential.
Traditionally, foodies uncork a bottle of vino to enhance their meal. And, they follow specific rules: white with fish, red with meat, spicy wine to stand up to spicy food, sweeter wine with hard cheese, for example. But what happens when we toss standardized ideas out the window and pop the top off a beer to pair with a special meal? Would it be as good as wine? Could it be better?
Certainly, like wine, the kind of beer chosen to imbibe alongside each course should bring out something in the dish, and make it more enjoyable. It shouldn’t overpower it and, likewise, its own nuances shouldn’t be lost by the force of the dish’s flavor. No one would think twice about drinking beer with deep fried bar fare, barbeque, pizza or tacos. But, how would beer match up to a more sophisticated menu normally reserved for the likes of wine?
For the third year in a row, El Bizcocho at the picturesque Rancho Bernardo Inn Golf Resort & Spa, just outside San Diego California, has put this question to their patrons. Executive Chef Judd Canepari and Sous Chef William Geiger designed a 5-course meal and invited Greg Koch from Stone Brewing Company in San Diego and Barry Wiss from Trinchero Family Estates Winery in Napa to match their elixirs to the food. Guests received ballots and were asked to vote, course by course, for either the wine or the beer presented as the perfect match for the dish.
And, this year is the tie breaker! In the first year of this culinary experiment (2007), wine was top dog. In 2008, beer proved victorious. We settled into our seats, lifted our glasses and forks, and revved up our tastebuds.
Course 1:
Food: Beet Cured Ocean Trout, Compressed Green Apple, Crème Fraiche Pearls, Spiced Bread
Beer: Ommegang Biere de Mars
Wine: 2008 Trinchero Napa Valley Mary’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc
Notes: The smoky and salty cured trout worked well with the beer, yet overwhelmed the wine.
My Vote: Beer
Course 2:
Food: Seared Scallop, Kabocha Squash Risotto, Chicken Liver Parfait, Basil Cress and Veal Jus
Beer: Stone Pale Ale
Wine: 2007 Napa Cellars Mt. Veeder Chardonnay
Notes: This dish was a challenge because the rich and creamy risotto contrasted nicely with the caramelized overtones of the beer. However, the delicate flavors of scallop played wonderfully with the softer buttery, brioche notes in the chardonnay.
My Vote: Wine
Course 3:
Food: Duck Confit Croquette, Port Puree, Braised Shallot, Turnip Fondant
Beer: Victory V12
Wine: 2007 Napa Cellars Pinot Noir
Notes: The beer’s toffee and higher than usual alcohol content (12%) was a wonderful contender to match with the rich duck meat. I struggled a bit with this decision. However, I surmised that the duck was particularly nice with the elegant, cooler climate pinot noir.
My Vote: Wine
Course 4: 
Food: Crispy Pork Belly, Artichoke Barigoule, Smoked Carrot, Fennel Tomato Jam
Beer: Ale Smith Grand Cru
Wine: 2007 Trinchero Napa Valley Cabernet Franc
Notes: This was my least favorite dish of the meal because the pork belly was inconsistent from plate to plate. At least one person at our table was served a morsel of pork flesh beneath a lump of jiggly, barely cooked fat, when it should have been topped by a thin, browned and crispy (as pictured here) layer of guilty pleasure. As for the dish, overall, the beer stood up to the richness of the meat, and I expected to prefer it with this sort of food. However, the cabernet franc was smooth and bold with nice acid which balanced the natural greasy lusciousness of the pork belly.
My Vote: Wine
Course 5:
Food: Butternut Squash Cassonade, Bitter Chocolate Consomme, Malt Foam, Puffed Rice
Beer: 2004 Sonte Old Guardian Barley Wine
Wine: Terra D’Oro Zinfandel Port Non Vintage, Amador
Notes: This dessert was fantastic – the creamy and light butternut squash cassonade was both creative and tasty, and an interesting contrast with the bitter chocolate consommé. The spice and sweet of the Zinfandel Port made this an easy decision for me.
My Vote: Wine
This dinner was a fun and eye-opening experience, and every person enjoyed arguing for their favorite pairing with the rest of the table. With more than one dish, a persuasive argument could be made for beer or for wine and debate, we did! In the end, my votes leaned more toward wine… but apparently there was at least one person who leaned the opposite direction… because the final tally was:
242 Beer / 241 Wine
Why not book a table at El Bizcocho with some of your friends for the 2010 showdown? And in the meantime, get creative at your next dinner party and try pairing beer, wine and / or spirits for a mouthwatering and challenging change of pace.