Sweet On Sherry

Over the last 30 years, wine has become an integral element of the American dining experience.  Its popularity soared in the 1980’s when the “upwardly mobile” splashed cash to impress one another in the decade of decadence.  The new breed of self-initiated Wine Snobs pontificated on fermented grape juice (as if it hadn’t already been integrated into the rest of the world for several millennia) touting varietals, swirling glasses and endlessly pointing to “legs” running down the insides of their glasses, wowing their less knowledgeable friends.  Spending $50, $100 or more per bottle to “build their collections,” the new wine worshippers were more about hoarding than drinking, and more interested in showing off than enjoying anything “out of the box,” both literally and figuratively.

However, as with any self-conscious demographic, there tends to be a fair amount of “group think” for fear of standing apart and enduring scoffs and scorns from Zagat-worshipping fellow foodies.  Notice how the whole United States dropped their glasses of Merlot upon the release of a precocious little film called Sideways, in 2004?  Hollywood depicted a couple of middle aged men behaving badly in California wine country whilst suffering full-blown mid-life crisis – and Pinot Noir became “the new black.”

Meanwhile, the younger generations of Americans have had the benefit of growing up with an awareness about wine, and are therefore slightly more adventurous.  Stores like Trader Joe’s and TV personalities such as Anthony Bourdain carry enough gourmet “clout” to be taken seriously among the hippie-turned-yuppy herds of sheep but retain enough “down-to-earth” accessibility to be respected by those less prone to handed down prejudice against categories just because someone with visibility said so.  The economic downturn of late has also made it less hip to be boastful, and the new game, even among the well-to-do, is showing off a “great find” – (ie: a quality product at an affordable price).  Reverse snobbery, perhaps, but a benefit to all, in the long run.

Enter Sherry.

Yeah, I know what you’re thinking: “Bah, I don’t like sweet wine.”  or  “You want me to drink that stuff for cooking?”  My retorts: “Relax”, and “No.”  Read on, free thinker.  Let’s start with the basics:

What Is Sherry?

The word “Sherry” originates from the Arabic word “Sherish,” which was a town founded by the Phoenicians about 3000 years ago. Sherry is Spanish wine fortified with brandy, grown in that country’s oldest wine making region.  Yes, like Champagne or Cognac in France, Sherry is only authentic if it comes from the “Sherry Triangle” formed by three Andalusian cities:  Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa Maria and Sanlucar de Barrameda.  The hot climate, cool ocean breezes and chalky “albariza” soil, make it ideal for its three typical grape varietals:  Palomino, Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel.

SidebarAlthough Muslims abstain from liquor, the Arabs are credited for creating distillation for medicinal use, a method which we employ for making alcoholic spirits.  The Moros, or Moors, crossed into Spain by way of neighboring Morocco, and occupied the Iberian Penninsula for nearly a Century, bringing their technology with them.

How Is Sherry Made?

The majority of grapes are hand-picked at harvest (early Fall).  The Palomino and Moscatel are typically sent directly to pressing to become drier, lighter colored “Finos” and “Manzanilla” Sherries.  The more sugary grapes, such as Pedro Ximenez, are dried in the sun, to naturally intensify their sweetness.

The mosto (or must) from the grapes is placed in steel vats for quick fermentation.  Once the sugar has converted into ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide, the juice undergoes a second, slower fermentation for a couple of months, which results in a dry white wine with 11 – 12 1/2 % alcohol.  This wine, also known as Palomino Fino is rather nondescript and although drunk regularly by Spaniards, it is not widely exported.

To become sherry, the wine is then poured into used American oak barrels.  An oxygen-proof, protective layer of yeast called “flor” lies on the surface of the liquid within the barrel during its aging, which lasts anywhere from approximately 1 – 7 years resulting in pale Fino, straw-colored Manzanilla or amber-hued Amontiallado Sherries.  These Sherries can only be kept for about a week after opening because it will oxidize once in contact with the air.

The more full-bodied wines are placed in barrels without this additional yeast or “flor,” so that the wine may oxidize.  After several years of aging, these barrels produce dark amber-colored Oloroso, mahogany-like Creams and Moscatels, and dark raisin-colored Pedro Ximenez Sherries which are usually about 17% alcohol after being fortified with brandy (distilled grape spirit).  Because the wine is already oxidized, the darker Sherries can last up to 1 or 2 months after the bottle has been opened.

What’s the Solera System?

Sherry is considered a non-vintage wine because the bottles are not classified by a particular harvest year but rather various years’ wines blended from barrel to barrel.  The Solera System consists of barrels stacked upon barrels.  About 20% of the wine is removed from the upper barrels and blended into the ones below it, every year or every few years. This continues down from row to row until the bottom barrels (the oldest barrels) have 20% removed from them and bottled for consumption.  The top barrels are topped with 20% new Sherry, and the process continues.  While at a recent Sherry tasting at SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills led by Lucas Paya, we tasted a Pedro Ximenez, which had gone through this Solera process, and the oldest wine in the blend dated back to 1929!

Some History

Sherry has been popular within Spain for hundreds of years.  In the 1700’s, the British discovered these fortified wines travel well (so well, in fact, it is said that Ferdinand Magellan spent more money on Sherry for his ships than arms for his 1519 voyage around the world), and the British love affair with Sherry has never waned.

In the U.S., Sherry has endured the stigma of being a cheap, sweet wine, which was born out of that cocktailian wasteland, otherwise known as the 1970’s.  (Cooking sherry, by the way, is not Sherry at all, nor is it necessarily Spanish, and there is a movement to force said imposter to change its labeling.)  

Over the last two years, however, Sherry sales have increased by 50% within the United States.  This is partially due to the bang for the buck.  (Try finding a bottle of Bordeaux or Cognac dating back to 1929 and see how much that would cost you!)  A very decadent bottle of Sherry, aged through the Solera Sytem and thereby including fermented juice dating back decades, can run about $50.  An extremely decent Sherry containing blends going back 5 or event 7 years can be found for under $10.  

Sherry: Its Hip to Be Shared

A light, dry Sherry makes a lovely aperitif, or before dinner “appetite opener.”  Serve a Fino or Manzanilla with a plate of nuts, Spanish olives, or light seafood.  The amber-hued Amontialldo or dry-yet-fruity Oloroso go well with charcuterie and carpaccio.  The mahogany colored Palo Cortado is perfect with duck, venison or lamb.  And, the dark-and-decadent Cream, Moscatel and Pedro Ximenez can be served drizzled over fruit or ice cream, or sipped straight and enjoyed with a square of dark chocolate.

Like all wines or spirits, the best way to learn about Sherry is to taste it – with friends – alongside other Sherries.  L.A.'s SLS Hotel bar offers sherry flights whereby newcomers to the Spanish elixir can get a crash-course in its flavor profiles from light to dark.   The swanky hotel restaurant, The Bazaar by Spanish Celebrity Chef Jose Andres, also offers sherry pairing dinners, upon request.

Mixologists are also having fun with Sherry in cocktails – a new concept in American mixology, perhaps – but a classic pairing.  After all, the original classic martini was half gin and half vermouth, another type of fortified wine.

Be A Trendsetter

Sherry is delicious, versatile, inexpensive, and ahead of its time.  You’re welcome to hang back until some American middle aged men in a TV show or movie traipse around Spain tell you to like it.  So, why not get a leg up on grandpa and get to know Sherry now.  Its only a matter of time until the Wine Snobs catch on…