When my family moved to Santa Fe in 1974, I remember my parents springing for a babysitter so they could celebrate in one of the town’s iconic restaurants. At that time, the Palace Restaurant was a white tablecloth sort of establishment. A century before, it housed a legendary gambling hall and brothel. In the 1990s it had a stint as gaudy taco joint, and in more recent years, it found wobbly legs as a restaurant-slash-nightclub for the barfly scene. So, a few years ago, when the venue was sold, partially gutted and reinvented, yet again, the town was curious. A couple of notable chefs were attached, and then not… and then the pandemic shuttered everything, everywhere.
What has been born from the cocooned Palace Prime is exactly what Santa Fe has been needing. One step through the thick, embroidered curtains at the front door, a moody atmosphere with tendrils of its old west roots emerges. Softly lit red velvet swirls around cozy tables in the bar, and the modernized dining room hasn’t lost its sense of place or history. The vibe is upscale without being boring. It appeals to well-heeled retirees and also shimmers with a sexy amount of fun to attract younger people, too.
Julian Martinez, previously at Arroyo Vino, brings his wine, bar and hospitality knowledge to lead an array of respected professionals, several of whom also grew up in Santa Fe and have a special affection for the legendary space. Charles Dampf who is part of the management team is often found welcoming guests, and his made-to-order pasta business Quattro Mani will soon supply the restaurant with its doughy ribbons of delight. Todd Walker, one of Santa Fe’s favorite barmen, is back behind the bar after a few years away in Los Angeles. He is joined by a gracious and talented crew of bartenders. And, Executive Chef Rocky Durham has settled in with a sophisticated yet approachable menu that features classic delicacies such as escargot and steak tartare as well as unique bison carpaccio and a selection of steaks, seafood and sumptuous sides.
The drink menu is a thoughtful blend of classic drinks invigorated with creative twists and the offerings will expand once the warm weather allows for entertainment on the front, back and side patios. The outside spaces will certainly add to downtown’s must-do brunch and happy hour spots when the sun comes out and the DJs return to spice up the social scene.
On my first visit to Palace Prime, I paired the Butcher’s Martini with fresh oysters. The horseradish in the drink provides just enough of a kick to be an appropriate accompaniment to the mollusks without overpowering them.
When I visited Palace Prime again, recently, I started off with the Mayan Monk featuring mezcal, green chartreuse, pink peppercorn-pineapple reduction and egg white. It was a fun little aperitif and got my party started along with a sashimi special. I also had to try the escargot which were as herby, buttery and garlicky as I had hoped.
I also selected the Duck Confit special and Chef Rocky’s expertise with classic cuisine shone through, yet again. With this, I sipped a Greenpoint (a modern twist on a traditional Manhattan first created in New York around 2006) which was not on the menu. It is a rare delight to come across bartenders who actually know the modern classic cocktails, especially the stirred ones, so this pushed my already delightful experience at the bar into the realm of “oh, hell yes!”
My dining companion got an impressive pork dish which came with the green chile mac-n-cheese, the quintessential Santa Fe-inspired side dish populating high-end menus around town. On my next visit, I’d add Asparagus Bearnaise as a side because I’m a sucker for Continental dishes done well.
When splashing out, go for the Siberian Sturgeon Caviar served with properly with blini, egg, shallot and crème fraiche. More casual fare includes a house ground burger or shrimp cocktail. The excepted array of desserts include flourless chocolate cake, bread pudding, tiramisu, and so on - with green chile ice cream from La Lecheria as the most unique offering. And, the extensive, curated wine list has something exceptional for every taste.
Palace Prime is what locals asked for downtown. It can be a cozy neighborhood bar and fine dining restaurant in the winter months, and a lively indoor-outdoor day and evening hang out with great food and drinks in warm weather. It’s an upscale see-and-seen sort of place without being either trashy or snobby.
After the pandemic made socializing feel uncomfortable for the last couple of years, I’m excited to take my fully-vaccinated and boosted self out and about more often in the months to come. I hope to cross paths with everyone else living their best lives at the beautifully reimagined hot spot on Palace Avenue.